Elevation	2,968 m (9,738 ft); Prominence: 1,075 m
Province	Jawa Tengah (Central Java)
Ribu Category	Tinggi Sedang
Links	Wikipedia English ; Wikipedia Indonesia

Photos

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Bagging It!

This Ribu is apparently the most active volcano in Indonesia. Its name literally means mountain of fire and it is one of the world’s 16 Decade Volcanoes. It can therefore be very dangerous indeed. The last major eruption was in 2006 and it continues to pose a significant threat to the many local villages on its slopes.

Many tour organizations offer treks up Merapi – for the best prices, check out the agents on Yogyakarta’s Jalan Sosrowidjian or proceed directly to New Selo. There are two routes to the summit area – from New Selo in the north and from Kaliurang in the south. Kaliurang is only a short drive from the city of Yogyakarta but people are banned from using this route due to it being too dangerous. Instead, the Merapi ‘basecamp’ is in New Selo. Most hikers start at midnight, or just after, in order to reach the summit area for first light. This is because Merapi generally emits more gases as the day goes on so early morning is the safest time to visit. Although there are one or two spots on the trail where it is possible to pitch a tent, there is a large campsite area, Pasar Bubrah (‘dismissed market’) at about 2,700m beneath the summit cone which has one or two monuments and some very large boulders with graffiti. This is an ideal place to have a couple of hours rest just before dawn.

After arriving in Yogyakarta it is rather easy to find transport to the mountain village of Selo from where the actual climb to Gunung Merapi starts. A taxi can be chartered for about US$30. It is highly advisable to arrange for your taxi to pick you up the following day as it can be rather difficult to organize transportation in the mountain village of Selo. To cover the 80km from the Airport to Selo will take between two to three hours depending on the traffic.

There are two routes possible and I would advise to go to Selo via Klanten and Boyolali. Then on the return journey follow the road towards Magelang and Mungkid back to Yogyakarta, which will give you a chance to stop for a visit to Borobudur temple. If you are lucky and the weather is clear then you will have spectacular views of not only Gunung Merapi to the south but also the neighboring volcano of Gunung Merbabu, as well as the rich productive fields of Central Java in the distance.

If you follow this route then you will drive all around Gunung Merapi and pass many small villages on the foot of this very active volcano. All these villages live from the very fertile volcanic soil and grow mainly rice in the lover elevation and then from 400 metres upwards endless amounts of tobacco, some corn, as well as every imaginable vegetable that is used in the Indonesian kitchen.

When arriving at Selo (1,500m) drive directly to the turn off to “NEW SELO” which is the starting point for the hike. Opposite the turn off you will find your bed for the night as well as your guides. Accommodation is simple but spacious and as in all rural areas in Indonesia very basic with few comforts. Here your own sleeping bag will guarantee a comfortable short night of sleep in the fresh cool mountain air.

Price per couple for one guide is set at a modest US$30. The room will cost you a staggering US$6.50 not including a breakfast of fried rice and a glass of coffee or tea which will set you back at least US$2 – US$2.50. It is customary to climb Merapi at night so that you reach the summit for dawn and avoid the worst of the sulphur gases which tend to become larger as the day progresses. Most hikers set off at around 2am. With your guides, you should easily be able to arrange transport for the 2km up to New Selo (1,775m) where the trail begins.

New Selo is a very popular viewpoint for local tourists, because you can enjoy terrific views of Gunung Merbabu across the mountain pass as well as over Selo and the surrounding fertile farming area. For the first 30 minutes the track follows rather steeply through large plantations of tobacco which end up in the factory of one of Indonesia’s largest cigarette producers. This small path can be very dusty during the dry season, but still offers plenty of grip on the way up.

By the time the last tobacco fields are left behind, you are close to 2,000 metres and gradually the forest trees get smaller and farther in between, and with it the surroundings offer terrific views back down the trail. As the woods get less dense the path starts to gradually get more and more rocky. Once you pass the national park sign it will take approximately 45 minutes of good hard uphill going to reach Pos 1 (2,150m) that is enclosed and protected by large boulders, and offers welcome protection from the often very strong winds.

If you are lucky to have a full moon and a clear sky then the crystal clear mountain night will unveil for you an unbelievably scenic spectacle with surreal shapes of more volcanoes both near and far, set in soft velvety clouds allowing the peaks to reach the star spotted skies. After a comfortable 30 to 40 minutes the top of the next ridge is reached. The many memorial plates (2,400m) are a reminder that the utmost of care must be taken when getting to the top of this very active volcano.

From here the path actually leads downhill for a short 300-400 metres to Pos 3 which once again is protected by large rocks. Once this point is reached it is wise to take a good rest before heading up the final section which will take an average fit person roughly 45 minutes. You must avoid to being on the summit before sunrise, as on the top the shelter is limited and the freezing cold winds can cool your over heated body in minutes down to very dangerous levels.

With the departure of Pos 3 the real fun starts as you venture into a volcanic landscape at its best. Time your departure well and keep in mind that the final ascent will take you just about one hour. At this stage the horizon gradually starts lighting up making the final run to the summit pure joy. The rocky, steep and uneven path can in some areas be rather slippery, but there is really no part where you are in any danger of falling down a long way.

Eventually you will reach an area where you can feel that the ground gets a lot warmer and in a few areas you will pass several vents where piping hot volcanic steam is blowing out from the mountain. From this area it will take you only about 15 minutes to get to the eerie summit area. The final 100 metres unveil an unbelievable mountain world of scree and huge shards of volcanic rock. The track leads from one large boulder to the next and eventually to the first deep crater created by recent eruptions. The path leads along the rim and gradually climbs further up for a final 50 metres to the highest area it is possible to reach. The smell of sulphur can be overwhelming. Unfortunately for Ribu baggers, the actual highest point appears to be inaccessible or at least incredibly dangerous at present (since the 2006 eruption – which blew apart the old highest point known as Garuda’s Wing – the highest point of the summit area is part of the new lava dome).

After enjoying the surreal and utterly unusual landscape and beautiful views, it will take you a comfortable 3 and a half hours to get back to New Selo from where a pick up truck or a chartered motor bike will take you back to your accommodation.

Bagging information provided by Heinz von Holzen