Facts
- Elevation: 2,107 m (6,913 ft)
- Prominence: 1,950 m
- Ribu category: Tinggi Sedang
- Province: Peninsular Malaysia
- Malaysian state: Pahang
- Range: Banjaran Benum
- Google Earth: kml
- Rating:
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Loading... - Other names: Benom
Photos
Bagging It!
Gunung Benum is a huge mountain massif all of its own, quite separate from other ranges. It is the third most prominent peak in Peninsular Malaysia, after Gunung Tahan and Gunung Korbu and therefore ought to be quite popular. However, despite only being around 3 hours from Kuala Lumpur, Benum doesn’t see as many hikers as might be expected. Interestingly, its name, also spelt ‘Benom’, reveals ancient links with Khmer speaking people (from Cambodia) as it comes from the word ‘phnum’ or ‘phnom’ meaning ‘hill’ or ‘mountain’. This means that Gunung Benum actually translates as ‘Mount Mountain’!
In the past, Gunung Benum was most commonly hiked from Lata Berembun (Sungai Klau near Raub) in two days or even an ultra-long dayhike. Since a landslide closed the access road to Lata Berembun in 2020 there have been no official hikes permitted from this more convenient side and all hikers wishing to reach the top of Gunung Benum must start in the east at Ulu Cheka for what is a more time-consuming trip, requiring anything from 3 to 5 days. In 2022, this forest, previously named Krau Wildlife Reserve, was renamed Rizab Hidupan Liar Tengku Hassanal.
Ulu Cheka route:
This route has become more popular again since 2020, initially requiring 5 days and 4 nights from Kampung Ulu Cheka which is an Orang Asli village. By 2023, some hikers had completed it in 3 days and 2 nights, perhaps due to the trail getting clearer due to being used more. Most fit hikers can complete the trek in 3 days, but the final day is a long one and many opt to camp by the river and have a short Day 4. The following itinerary is based on the 3-day option. The cost of a guide tends to remain exactly the same whether you complete it in 3 days or require longer. The many golden signs on the Ulu Cheka trail are quite beautiful, yet the estimated number of hours required which are printed on them are often wildly exaggerated, at least on the assumption that several other hiking groups have completed the trek in recent months.
Day One
Prior to starting the hike, you will need to visit the local forestry office with your guide. It is located a few kilometres south of Ulu Cheka. After you have signed some paperwork and had the contents of your bags checked you will be free to get started. A short 4WD journey into plantations (216m) near Ulu Cheka is the common way to begin. The trail soon leads into forest and there is a surprising amount of birdlife here. There are also leeches on this section of trail, but thankfully very few the following day. The trail passes Lata Lemang (312m), Kem Emergency (548m, after around 2 hours), Kem Jeneruh (645m), Bukit Kayu Damar (873m, after around 4 hours, where there is a water source 10 minutes away which is the last water point not from a tank), Permatang Kecil (1,121m), Rocks (1,414m), and then Gunung Lilin (1,469m), which is typically the camp spot on the first day. Most hikers should have reached this point in around 7 or 8 hours. There is a water tank here but you are advised to boil the water before consuming. There’s enough space for a small number of tents in what is a clearing on a minor hilltop. You won’t get any distant views from here but pitcher plants grow in abundance.
Day Two
The next day the first objective is Gunung Runtuh (‘collapsed mountain’, 1,759m), named so this is where the Malaysian Army once fought with communist insurgents. It is around 2 hours from Gunung Lilin. There are some challenging spots requiring good concentration and involving ropes, boulders and deep holes. The trail continues via Pos Tinjau (‘lookout post’, 1,853m) and then Batu Serondong (1,902m), a large overhanging boulder. Batu Serondong features a large amount of communist graffiti from 1967, presumably by the very same insurgents who battled with the Army at Gunung Runtuh.
At any point during Day Two, if you are fortunate, you may encounter giant worms. Gunung Benum’s higher ridges are famous for this, but they only tend to come out in wet weather. If you don’t get lucky with the giant worms, you almost certainly will see numerous huge pitcher plants which must be some of the largest specimens in Peninsular Malaysia.
Next up is Permatang Beruang (‘bear ridge’, 1,943m) followed by Permatang Angin (‘ridge of the wind’, 2,073m) which is the typical camp spot on the second day. Most hikers should have reached this point in around 6 hours from Gunung Lilin. Permatang Angin is perhaps the best spot on the entire hike, with good views in clear weather to Gunung Tahan in the north and on the other side Gunung Ulu Kali at Genting Highlands to the south-west. There is another water tank here, this time with a tap, so you do have a water source but one which ought to be treated before consuming. It’s a lovely ridge with plenty of flat spaces to set up camp on.
The best plan is to set up camp here, before heading to the summit of Gunung Benum and back again so that you don’t need to do it the following day. There is no advantage to carrying all of your camping equipment with you to the summit and as there are no views it doesn’t especially matter if it is cloudy. It is around 90 minutes to the summit via Simpang Lata Bujang (2,037m, the junction to be used the following day for your descent) and Helipad (2,068m) from where there is a view to the forested summit.
Gunung Benum peak is in deep, mossy forest on one of many large mounds. It is marked with a beirut, plus numerous signs and flags.
It takes around 90 minutes to return the same way to Permatang Angin.
Day Three
If you start early, at first light, it is quite possible to reach the road by late afternoon. Rather than going back the same way to Ulu Cheka, it is better to descend on an alternative trail from Simpang Lata Bujang passing Anak Sungai Terboi (1,852m), Kem Cenkenit/Chengkenik (higher camp), Kem Permatang Cermin (1,203m, after around 3 hours), Tongkat Ali (788m), Perdu Buluh, Kem Sungai Besar (402m, lower camp named after a large river). Kem Sungai Besar is reached after 5-7 hours and this is the place that most local groups tend to camp at on Day Three. Just prior to reaching Kem Sungai Besar is a particularly memorable stretch of impossibly steep mud and bamboo, with a rope or two not helping much in the negotiating of treacherous terrain.
After what is an exhausting descent it can seem very appealling to camp at Kem Sungai Besar, though you can complete the hike the same day in another 3-4 hours if you wish. You need to have plenty of energy remaining, because there are several river crossings including Sungai Pertama (304m) and Sungai Kedua (240m) which can be dangerous without sufficient care or in bad weather. These crossings simply cannot be done after heavy rain and some groups have had to wait until the following morning.
There are sometimes Rafflesia flowers blooming in this area so do ask your guide for the latest information on any recent sightings. The final hour or so of trail feels neverending but after the waterfall junction (224m) and once you reach the road near Perlok (129m) you will probably be delighted to be back in civilization after an epic journey on one of Peninsular Malaysia’s grandest ranges. Hopefully your guide will have sent a message to your 4WD driver to pick you all up and head back north to Ulu Cheka.
Lata Berembun route (currently closed):
It is usually climbed over one to three days from the western side, with one night camping at or near the summit or two nights camping halfway up. The Lata Berembun trail is about 12km in length one way and there are actually two alternate trails which can be combined in a loop. The western route is better for water so it makes sense to hike up that way and back down the eastern route as follows:
From Lata Berembun (620m) (which makes a reasonable camp spot in its own right) the newer, less-famous western trail leads via water point (860m), and Kem Rilek (1,285m) which is soon followed by Last Water Point (1,370m). The trail then gains the ridge and changes direction towards Kem Bulat (1,720m), some boulders (1,850m), and finally a signboard (2,098m) just before the summit itself which is also big enough for a handful of tents.
Back down the eastern route (the older, traditional route), the trail passes Kem Periuk (1,690m) and Kem Dingin / Tikus (1,670m) where there are numerous pitcher plants. Both camp spots are good for camping but not good for clean water. Some is available at Kem Tikus but take iodine tablets and/or boil the water (or use the western route up).
Doing things in reverse, in the traditional manner, Kem Dingin / Tikus is reached in about 3-4 hours from Lata Berembun and it is then a further 2-3 hours to Kem Periuk. The summit is a further 2 hours, so in total 7-9 hours one way. There are many ‘false peaks’ between Kem Tikus and the summit.
Because of the lack of a good water source higher up on the traditional route, some hikers do it as a very long ‘day-hike’ starting at first light and finishing way, way after dark but the vast majority of hikers need one night camping somewhere.
There are not many views from the dense forest but there are many pitcher plants here. The summit is in mossy forest and has the usual surveyor’s metal beirut on it. Look out for leeches near the trailhead.
Trail Map
For a high quality PDF version of this and other trail maps, please download from our Trail Maps page.
Local Accommodation
Practicalities
- Getting there: For Malaysian domestic flights and flights within Southeast Asia, for example to Kuala Lumpur, we recommend Baolau. On the Ulu Cheka side, there is very little public transport so a private car is needed. For the Lata Berembun route, from Raub it is 23km to Sungai Klau town where you need a 4WD (try Ah Gao +60 13-982 2246) to cover 12km (45 minutes) to Lata Berembun waterfall. 4WD fits 7 and costs around RM300 in 2020. The trail starts on the left just before the bridge and waterfalls and there is a camping area here too.
- Guides and GPS Tracks: Want a PDF version for your phone? Looking for a guide? Need GPS tracks and waypoints? Gunung Benum information pack can be downloaded here.
- Trip planning assistance: Would you like Gunung Bagging to personally help you in arranging your whole trip? Please contact us here.
- Permits: You can register and pay for an e-Permit online from the Forestry Department of Malaysia website. Locals pay RM10 and foreigners pay RM30 (in 2024).
- Water sources: On the Ulu Cheka side: Available as far as Permatang Angin, though from a water tank. On the Raub side: Available at Camp Tikus but it is recommended you boil it first or use iodin tablets. Very difficult beyond there on the more famous eastern route so be sure to take plenty of bottled water! On the western route water is available as far as around 1,370m.
- Accommodation: Try the Booking.com map above or use this link to search for suitable hotels, homestays, resorts and apartments for your trip.
- We recommend Safety Wing as travel insurance for overseas travellers and tourists hiking up to elevations not exceeding 4500 metres.
Local Average Monthly Rainfall
Gunung Benum / Benom has been near the top of my ‘to do’ list for longer than almost anything else. And so it was first on the itinerary for Peninsular Malaysia after finishing the Batu Lawi trek. One day of travel between two significant hikes, and using the Ulu Cheka route to Benum as the Lata Berembun side remains closed. The travel day started well, with several hours at Miri airport to load up on Marry Brown and Subway food!
Sadly, the day deterioriated as the flight to KL was delayed by around 2 hours. When I landed, I still had my headache and had to rush to collect my backpack before picking up a rental car, meeting an American co-hiker in KL and getting to Ulu Cheka, all the same evening. At the luggage belts all sorts of building work was going on with people hammering and drilling away. Truly awful. Then my bag arrived with the top open and missing a couple of plastic bags from inside. They contained spare clothes and food, rather than anything absolutely vital, but it meant that without them I would be down to an absolute bare minimum for the Benum hike aside from whatever I could buy in the village at the trailhead as I did not have time to wait to see if they would come on the conveyor belt separately. This was partly my fault as the bag strap needed a bit of maintenance but also likely due to carelessness from those guys whose job it is to throw bags to and from trolleys.
The airport was packed, more like Jakarta than Kuala Lumpur, and it turned out to be an important date in the Islamc calendar, with thousands of extra arrivals, and a traffic jam outside for perhaps over one kilometre. This meant hopping into the rental car was not going to be simple either and my co-hiker was waiting at a restaurant near Batu Caves that might be closed by the time I got there. And then we would drive to Ulu Cheka and hope someone would let us check in well past midnight, before waking at 6am and starting out on a gruelling 3-day trek. It was one of those moments when you think things are getting just a bit too much to handle!
Somehow it all worked out fine, thanks especially to the very nice staff at Lata Lang Buana Resort in Ulu Cheka who let us check in at around 2am and also leave the car there whilst we did the hike. Highly recommended and ideally located for a hike up Gunung Benum. Also some nice views of the mountain from the resort.
Our guide was wonderful too and told us many stories about the mountain including the origins of its name and the flora and fauna. Day 1 was full of leeches and not many views. Day 2 was wonderful, especially the bear shit and laughing thrush at Gunung Runtuh, the pied flycatcher and big pitchers at Pos Tinjau, and the gorgeous views from Permatang Angin. After several short ascents on the supposed way down, which our guide called ‘good morning hill’, Day 3 felt neverending and it was wonderful to make it to the road at the end before an Air Tebu, then a quick wash and a drive up to Cameron Highlands. The next day would be Gunung Irau, compared to the recent week or more, it would feel like a rest day!
By the way,
The normal hike per guide (max 10 pax lineup per guide) is RM250 per day (24hr)
4wheel for Mt Benum is RM350 round trip (max 7pax with crews included)
The guide should be responsible for necessary arrangements such as permits, basic medications etc
Thanks. How recently did you do it?
Hit me on my email at ben.gostem@gmail.com
I think i can help on organizing the hike, been a while since the last time i went there
Warning to all decent minded people to watch out for a Malaysian guide by the name of Popoi.
Below is the conversation I had with him.
In short, he discriminates against foreigners and was trying to charge an insane RM600 PER DAY ($145) for guiding on Gunung Benum. So a 2-day hike would be $290 (USD) equivalent!
These types are all too common in the West Malaysian hiking community. You should never pay more than around RM250 ($60) a day. If you do, you are getting completely taken advantage of AKA ripped off. Luckily there are a few good ones out there too, but it can take a lot of time in West Malaysia to avoid the Popoi type people who think money grows on trees where the white man comes from.
06/12/2019, 21:45 – Messages to this chat and calls are now secured with end-to-end encryption. Tap for more info.
06/12/2019, 21:45 – Dan: Helli Popoi. How was your Benum hike? Do you have a number for a local guide near the mountain?
06/12/2019, 21:45 – Dan: Daniel in Jakarta here
07/12/2019, 06:32 – Popoi Benum: Hi Daniel
07/12/2019, 06:32 – Popoi Benum: I am the mountain guide 🙂
07/12/2019, 06:34 – Dan: Ah ok great. Where do you live?
07/12/2019, 07:36 – Dan: I’m looking for someone fast. For March. 2 days.
07/12/2019, 20:06 – Popoi Benum: I live in KL
07/12/2019, 20:08 – Popoi Benum: Yes mount benum can be done by 2 days
Can you let me when,date in March?
07/12/2019, 20:13 – Dan: Sure. 24-25.
07/12/2019, 20:14 – Dan: And actually, maybe one more time about 1 week before.
07/12/2019, 20:14 – Dan: Depending on price of course
07/12/2019, 20:18 – Popoi Benum: I am okay with the date (24-25)
But just to let you know I also doing trip for Mount Benum on 21-22 March
Do you want to join the date?
07/12/2019, 20:19 – Dan: Thanks but cannot because doing Tahan then
07/12/2019, 20:21 – Popoi Benum: So I assume this will be personal hike yea
Because I will bring just yourself
07/12/2019, 20:21 – Dan: For 24-25 probably just me and 1 friend
07/12/2019, 20:22 – Dan: Both quite experienced
07/12/2019, 20:22 – Popoi Benum: Okay for 2pax then
07/12/2019, 20:22 – Popoi Benum: Good to know
07/12/2019, 20:23 – Dan: Yes. And maybe another friend around March 14-15 (date not confirmed yet)
07/12/2019, 20:24 – Popoi Benum: Alright let’s discuss on the confirmed one first
24-25 yea
07/12/2019, 20:24 – Popoi Benum: 2pax
08/12/2019, 06:39 – Dan: Ok
08/12/2019, 14:33 – Popoi Benum: Hi Daniel
Before I give you quotation
Can please let me know as below:
1- transportation when you arrive airport (u manage yourself or you want me pick u up)
2- food and drink on hiking (you prepare yourself or you want me to do, if want me to do please let me what food n drink you preferred)
3-insurance (do you want to pay or not)
4- porter (do you need and how many)
08/12/2019, 14:35 – Popoi Benum: Btw if you have Instagram
You may check on my hiking group,m doing with my fiancée 🙂
@gotmad.my
08/12/2019, 14:35 – Dan: Thanks
08/12/2019, 14:36 – Dan: Not sure yet for most of those. Just send guide cost for now plus any optional extras we can add on later.
08/12/2019, 14:40 – Popoi Benum: Alright then
08/12/2019, 14:40 – Popoi Benum: For 2pax
Guide rate: RM600/day
= (RM1200)
4wheel drive return: RM500
Total: RM1700
08/12/2019, 14:40 – Dan: Rm600 a day?
08/12/2019, 14:41 – Dan: You know the minimum monthly wage in Malaysia?
08/12/2019, 14:41 – Dan: You also know guides in Sabah are about rm80 a day?
08/12/2019, 14:42 – Popoi Benum: RM600 for 2pax
08/12/2019, 14:42 – Dan: Perhaps you don’t think I’m experienced in this?
08/12/2019, 14:43 – Popoi Benum: This is my normal rate
08/12/2019, 14:43 – Dan: What difference between 1 and 2 hikers? Still only 1 guide required.
08/12/2019, 14:43 – Dan: Well it is totally outlandish.
08/12/2019, 14:46 – Popoi Benum: Please understand that is my normal rate for Mount Benum
for personal trip
Perhaps if you join the trip I organise per pax is just RM200 for local, RM300 for international
08/12/2019, 14:46 – Dan: Why discriminate against foreigners?
08/12/2019, 14:47 – Popoi Benum: You want fast and good quality service
This is my expertise
I brought many group doing daypack not camping overnight
08/12/2019, 14:47 – Dan: Fine. But your price is ludicrous.
08/12/2019, 14:48 – Popoi Benum: For permit got difference also other necessary arrangement
08/12/2019, 14:48 – Popoi Benum: If you think my rate is high
You may check with others
And it okay if you don’t want to use my service
08/12/2019, 14:49 – Dan: Don’t be ridiculous. You are another one of the ‘take as much as I can’ types who thinks anyone with white skin is stupid. But thanks anyway. I’ll let people know your price.
08/12/2019, 14:50 – Popoi Benum: Thank you 🙂
08/12/2019, 14:58 – Popoi Benum: Just so you know
Mount Benum is a 3D 4N trip
Hence the rate is actually for 4days
Doesn’t matter if do Daypack or 2 days
08/12/2019, 14:59 – Popoi Benum: Also you are not the first foreigners ever join my hiking trip
None of them rude like you
08/12/2019, 15:03 – Dan: You are the rude one. Rm600 a day is an incredible price. Offensively so. More than a doctor or lawyer probably. But it is up to you. You decide your own price. But do not expect intelligent people to think it is anything but exploitative of non malaysians.
08/12/2019, 15:04 – Popoi Benum: Do you understand this?
08/12/2019, 15:05 – Dan: So you try to spread it out to make more money. 6 hours hiking. 6 hours cooking. Etc. Nonsense.
08/12/2019, 15:05 – Popoi Benum: This is really funny
08/12/2019, 15:05 – Dan: It is true. Sarawak around rm100.
08/12/2019, 15:05 – Popoi Benum: You first must understand
08/12/2019, 15:05 – Popoi Benum: Mount Benum is 4D 3N hiking trip
08/12/2019, 15:05 – Dan: I understand you are trying to rip me off.
08/12/2019, 15:06 – Popoi Benum: It is a tough mountain to hikes
08/12/2019, 15:06 – Dan: That is all I need to understand.
08/12/2019, 15:06 – Dan: Mountains usually are.
08/12/2019, 15:08 – Popoi Benum: Mount Benum is really really tough
Of course every mountain has different level
But again the hike for Mount Benum is 4D 3N
Even if you want for 2D
The price still the same
We are talking about energy use for compress hike and the shorten trip
08/12/2019, 15:09 – Popoi Benum: Don’t call people name
If you not happy or okay with my rate
Can just tell nicely
That all
If anyone fancies doing this as a dayhike on Sat July 13th then please reply below. Will be arriving in KL late Friday night (12th July), and assuming others are keen will head direct to town nearest the trailhead. Back to KL on Sunday morning / lunchtime….
Dan
interested for day hike Mt Benom 12thJuly.
Great, I’ll email you shortly. Hopefully we can find a few others…
Did the hike happen on that weekend? If so, how long it took?
Just went with my friend last weekend to do some trail recognition. After a bit of struggling to find the trail head, we managed to reach Camp Tikus/Dingin after 3 hours. Didn’t see any water source there but we didn’t explore around too much. According to what I read, reaching Camp Periuk from Tikus can take similar amount of time as trailhead-Tikus. I suppose 7 hours one way is already a very good hike time without any long stops.
Hello Petr. I didn’t end up doing it that weekend because I couldn’t find anyone else to go with and so getting from KL and back again without high cost would have been difficult in the limited time (just a normal weekend). At present I have it pencilled in for July 2020. Maybe one night camping. If you are keen, let me know and I’ll keep you updated….
Dan