Batu Lawi

Facts

• Elevation: 2,046 m (6,713 ft)
• Prominence: 400 m
• Ribu category: Spesial
• Province: Sarawak (Malaysia)
• Range: Kelabit Highlands
• Division: Bahagian Limbang
• Google Earth: kml
• Rating: (1 votes) Add your rating
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• Other names: Batu Lawih

Photos

Batu Lawi, also spelt ‘Lawih’, is one of Borneo’s most iconic mountains, with two steep sandstone summit pinnacles. It can be clearly seen from the small aircraft that fly daily from Miri to Bario. The lower ‘female’ one of the two is about 1,930m whereas the taller ‘male’ peak further north is around 2,046m above sea level. The mountain is of great significance to local people including the Kelabit and the Penan. They successfully campaigned to have it included in the Pulong Tau (‘our forest’) National Park which also covers nearby Gunung Murud, the highest in Sarawak, and much of Gunung Tama Abu (2,113m and a prominence of around 702 metres) a vast fortification-like range stretching down to the south-west of Bario which is one of Sarawak’s least accessible peaks and was only summited first in 2009 from the west side via Long Lellang. This Park was gazetted in 2005 but the foothills of the great mountain have been heavily scarred by logging activities over the years.

The city of Kuching fell during the Japanese occupation in late 1941, and much of coastal Borneo was under Japanese control by early 1942. The self-sufficient Kelabit Highlands were a different story, being so remote and rather far from the coasts. Batu Lawi, being so iconic, was known to the Allies as ‘Mount 200’ and used as a key landmark for aviators flying over the interior (usually from Morotai airbase, in present-day North Maluku, Indonesia via The Philippines). In March 1945, Tom Harrisson parachuted into the “Plains of Bah” around Bario with seven other Westerners, in order to assist the local people and work together to prevent Japanese conquest of the interior. Tragically, the plane that Harrisson travelled on never made it back to the Philippines and no trace was ever found. Harrisson didn’t find this out for several months.

A little later, in 1946, Harrisson along with a team of local Kelabit people – including Lejau Unad Doolinih – finally made it to the top of the female peak where Harrisson left a wooden memorial to Flight 200. After the surrender of Japanese forces, Harrisson became Curator at Kuching’s Sarawak Museum and wrote an excellent book on the Kelabit Highlands entitled ‘World Within’ (first published in 1959) which includes many sentences devoted to the near-mythical ‘great twin white pinnacles’. 40 years later in 1986, a British and Australian team led by Jonny Beardsall reached the top of the male peak. And in 1987, a second memorial made of bronze was erected next to Harrisson’s wooden memorial on the female peak. In 1999, Lightner and Volker climbed the highest peak in an expedition which was written about in Lightner’s 2002 book ‘All Elevations Unknown’. The Swiss campaigner Bruno Manser supposedly planned to climb Batu Lawi in May 2000 – after a failed attempt in 1988 – and was never seen again. The male peak was successfully climbed again in 2007 by Malaysians from a university in Cyberjaya on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur.

Bario is one of the very finest places in Borneo to spend a few days and has genuinely rich culture and history with hundreds of ancient megaliths dotted around the landscape including the famous Batu Ritung dolmen at Pa’ Lungan. One of the reasons for its great success as a settlement is the salt springs found in several of the villages which has a high natural mineral content. To reach the base of the mountain from Bario takes a couple of days, so a proper trip to view the summit cliffs up-close requires a minimum of 5 days in total. Experts would need several more days for an actual rock climb up to the top of the male peak. The lower female peak is a scramble, especially near the very top where a rope ladder is usually required, but there is only very limited space for erecting tents. John Briggs, author of ‘Mountains of Malaysia’ (published in 1988) was of the opinion that the dawn view here is the second best in all of Malaysia (after Gunung Trusmadi). Batu Lawi is perhaps one of the best examples of a peak which is visually extremely prominent, being a vertical finger of rock, yet because it is connected via a high pass to the higher Gunung Murud it has only 400 metres of topographic prominence.

The usual trailhead is in the village of Pa Ukat (1,075m). This leads northwards via many stream crossings and Shelter 3 (1,740m), Shelter 4 (1,575) which is near a logging road and finally Shelter 5 (1,452m) which is at the foot of the peak. 

At present, the standard itinerary looks like this:

Day Zero

Arrive in Bario. Visit the Pulong Tau National Park office to register. Purchase any last-minute food items. Have a briefing with your guide prior to starting the hike the next morning. Most mornings, the trekking will begin at 8am.

Day One – 7-9 hours of hiking from Pa Ukat to Shelter Batu Buli (Shelter 3)

Transport from Bario to Pa Ukat, which takes around 20 minutes. The trailhead is unmarked. To begin with, the path follows the edges of rice fields, over a wooden bridge (1,077m) and past an area where a water buffalo often grazes. There’s a warning sign for the animal, so do take care, especially if for some reason you come past here on the final day in the dark! At the edge of the cultivated fields of Pa Ukat is what is known as the last farm (1,091m). This simple wooden house is a good place to have a short rest before entering the forest.

Once in the forest, there are numerous river crossings, so numerous that it becomes challenging to count them. There are also several sections of steep trail, both ups and downs. Depending on how recently another group of hikers has been here the trail could be rather vague in places. Leeches are very common here and difficult to avoid even with leech socks. There is a National Park sign (1,225m) just before a collection of boulders. Not far beyond this is a small pool of water which is apparently a salt lick and therefore very attractive to animals (and local hunters).

Eventually, as the trail leads higher it becomes more clearly-defined. The first excellent viewpoint (1,723m) is of Batu Buli (2,082m), a significant mountain in its own right. Batu Buli is to the left (west) of the trail, with the north or main peak being 2,082m (6830ft – 3.8294, 115.4319 – and with a prominence of approximately 283 metres) and the southern peak being 2,094m (6870ft – 3.8114, 115.4403 – and with a prominence of approximately 360 metres). The mountain is famous for its pitcher plants though these are much higher up the mountain and are not seen on this section of trail to Batu Lawi.

The trail then weaves its way through a gap in the Tama Abu cliffs (1,775m), passing across what on a map is clearly the Batu Buli ridgeline. The terrain changes here, with very mossy and slippery rocks to cross over with holes on either side. A beautiful, stone carving of a human figure on a mossy rock marks the edge of Bario territory, for those few entering or leaving the district this way. This is one of countless stone carvings and megaliths scattered across the Kelabit Highlands, though this one apparently only dates from 1940.

It is not much further to Shelter Batu Buli (Shelter 3, 1,740m), located on the far side of a stream with water that can be used for cooking. Purification tablets are recommended for an added layer of safety for drinking water. There are no views here but it is a pleasant spot in the forest. This, along with 4 other shelters were contructed in 2018 with funds from Volvo Trucks Malaysia. Shelters 1 and 2 are much closer to Bario and on although all 5 shelters are on the 25km Bario Ancestral Trail, only 3, 4 and 5 are on the route to Batu Lawi. The shelters could fit 10 hikers quite easily and are similar in size and design. Reaching all of them is a great feeling as it offers a welcome respite from leeches, mud and poor weather. That tents are not needed on this trek is a major advantage. Water is available at the nearby stream. Guides and porters usually sleep in hammocks below the main room of the shelter.

Day Two – 7-10 hours of hiking from Shelter Batu Buli (Shelter 3) to Shelter Batu Lawih (Shelter 5) passing via Shelter 4

Day Two begins with a slight descent through mossy forest, negotiating more mossy rocks and crossing on mossy logs over small streams of red-brown water. The trail then widens and vegetation becomes less dense. This is a sign you are on an offshoot (1,638m) of the main logging road, no longer used, which is the main feature of the day’s hike. There are wide pools of boggy water resembling small swamps and an increasing number of stunning pitcher plants in the cleared areas. The logging may have been dreadful for some species, but others appear to have thrived in the changed conditions. After a significant river crossing (1,615m), the main logging road (1,611m) is soon reached, and is much more overgrown than might be expected. However, the sunlight is piercing and those with pale skin ought to wear sunscreen for the rest of the day.  On the way back it is easy to miss this turning off the old logging road without the help of your guide or a well-placed marker (or GPS waypoint).

Follow the grassy old track down a little way to reach Arur Bila’ Bigan Shelter (Shelter 4, 1,575m). Most hikers should have reached this point in under 3 hours from Shelter 3. It makes a perfect spot for lunch and is also known as Ulu Limbang, being the source of the large Limbang river. Note that guides like this shelter best of all as there are two separate buildings – the main Shelter 4 and an older, more ramshackle building where the guides tend to stay. It also has less chance of being damaged by a fallen tree than the other shelters as it is in an open area with few towering trees near it. Once again, there is a nearby stream for collecting water for cooking and filling up water bottles.

Just a few metres beyond Shelter 4 is the biggest river crossing of the entire hike and could be dangerous if the water level is high. If it starts raining then you ought to cross while you can still do so safely, rather than waiting too long and being stuck at Shelter 4. After the river crossing, the next few hours are somewhat monotonous, weaving around the highland terrain in a rather inefficient manner but following the old, overgrown logging road. Just as the pitcher plants have done well in these more open landscapes, some animals such as deer, sun bears and snakes seem to be thriving here and you may be lucky to spot some. Otherwise, the trek is punctuated with the remains of an old wooden sign at the junction (1,655m) for Bakelalan and Gunung Murud, on trails almost never used now, and then discarded metal fuel drums (1,718m) once used by the loggers and now used by the very occasional hiker to sit on.

Again, there are some turnings which could easily be imperceptible without the guide’s knowledge or stored GPS waypoints so it is advisable to be very aware at any junctions, however minor they seem. At one or two points on the wide, grassy logging track you may catch a glimpse of the twin peaks of Batu Lawi but, as ever, it depends on the weather.

The final hour of the day is perhaps the most mentally-draining as it is down steeply through forest (from 1,693m). All of these metres lost in descent will of course need to be regained the next day on the hike up to the saddle between the male and female peaks. However, Shelter Batu Lawih (Shelter 5, 1,452m) is a brilliant spot, and in clear weather you can see Batu Lawi from upstairs. Water is slightly more difficult here compared to Shelters 3 and 4, with a stream around 10 minutes away, prior to the shelter, and involving a small descent. This is a fairly long day, and will have taken most hikers anything from 7 to 10 hours to complete. If you are lucky you will have a nice evening here, with some great photo opportunities of Batu Lawi.

Day Three – 6-8 hours of hiking from Shelter Batu Lawih (Shelter 5) to Batu Lawi saddle and back again

From Shelter 5, the trail leads even further down, despite this being summit day, to two small river crossings (at 1,304m and 1,355m) at a place known as Pa Tabun. There are some remnants of logging tracks even here, noticable when the trail seems wider, flatter, or with less dense vegetation. The trail then leads steeply up through the increasingly mossy forest and eventually you will see the gleaming bare white rock of Batu Lawi faintly visible through the trees. As you skirt round the cliffs (1,806m) of the male peak, there are some sections of trail with rope to help you negotiate very steep terrain, go past a small cave which would be a useful shelter in poor weather, and eventually get onto the saddle between the male and female peaks at an elevation of around 1,830m.

There are expansive views on either side of the saddle. For almost all hikers, the thought of attempting to scale the male peak is an unrealistic one, and even for those who have the necessary technical skills it would require several extra days. The alternative destination is the female peak, which at approximately 1,930m is only around 100 metres higher than the saddle, but even that is incredibly challenging, especially as a few tricky sections have ropes which are not sufficiently maintained to be safe or simple. Whether you attempt the female peak or not, the views here in this truly special and remote place are simply stunning.

Those who reach the female peak will pass by the bronze memorial placed on Batu Lawi in 1987 by an Australian military team to replace Tom Harrisson’s wooden memorial of 1946. The bronze memorial replicates what was legible from the original:

“….of 200 Flight….

They successfully dropped us at Bareo 25/3/45 but they never got back to Moratai. By Batu Lawi we steered on this and four previous attempts. The RAAF called in Mount 200. I pledged my word to climb it for them in their memory. Here in lonliness I remember my friends.

… Nagalewan Rajah

M…RI”

The trail back down to Shelter 5 is the same as the route up.

Day Four – 5-6 hours of hiking from Shelter Batu Lawih (Shelter 5) to Arur Bila’ Bigan Shelter (Shelter 4)

Although it is possible to hike back from Shelter 5 to Shelter 3 on Day Four, most hikers will be exhausted by this stage and opt for an easier day of 5-6 hours rather than 7-9. Even if you did reach Shelter 3 on Day Four, you would still have a considerable hike back to Pa Ukat on Day Five. Remember the wide river crossing to be negotiated just prior to Shelter 4. It is crucial to be over this while it is safe, so a late start from Shelter 5 is not wise as afternoon rains could make the crossing more difficult.

Day Five – 8-10 hours of hiking from Arur Bila’ Bigan Shelter (Shelter 4) back down to Pa Ukat

The final day is quite an energy-sapping one. Gruelling, even. Starting much later than 8am is not recommended as it is a good idea to be back in Bario before nightfall. Once down at the last farm, your guide will hopefully contact a driver. All being well, you will be met in Pa Ukat by the driver to take you back to the centre of Bario for a much-needed shower and celebratory meal.

Day Six

Fly back to Miri from Bario, and onward to Kuala Lumpur or wherever you are headed. The first flight from Bario is usually at 10 or 11am so if you have remaining energy then you do have time for a very quick sunrise ascent of Prayer Mountain on the edge of Bario before leaving.

Bagging information by Dan Quinn (August 2024)

Trail Map

For a high quality PDF version of this and other trail maps, please download from our Trail Maps page.

Local Accommodation

Booking.com

Practicalities

• Getting there: For Malaysian domestic flights and flights within Southeast Asia, for example to Kota Kinabalu or Kuching, we recommend Baolau. Fly to Bario with MASWings from Miri.
• Guides and GPS Tracks: Want a PDF version for your phone? Looking for a guide? Need GPS tracks and waypoints? Batu Lawi information pack can be downloaded here.
• Trip planning assistance: Would you like Gunung Bagging to personally help you in arranging your whole trip? Please contact us here.
• Permits: Register with locals and take a local guide from Bario, booked at last a week in advance. Typically RM1350 per person for a minimum of 2 hikers, with slighly lower prices for larger groups. Porters and food preparation available for an additional fee. RM20 Pulong Tau National Park entry fee for non-Malaysians and less for Malaysians, but this fee is usually included in the full price quoted.
• Water sources: Lots of streams but it is essential to communicate with your guide about the final water source on each day of the trek.
• Accommodation: Try the Booking.com map above or use this link to search for suitable hotels, homestays, resorts and apartments for your trip.
• We recommend Safety Wing as travel insurance for overseas travellers and tourists hiking up to elevations not exceeding 4500 metres.

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