Elevation	2,243 m (7,359 ft); Prominence: 1,xxx m
Province	Bali
Ribu Category	Tinggi Sedang
Also known as…	Batukau
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Photo by Brian McMorrow.

Bagging It!

This Ribu is Bali’s holy western mountain and is one of the wildest areas on the island. The name means ‘coconut shell’ in Balinese. There are hot springs and three craters on the mountain massif. It takes 4 or 5 hours from Batukau temple to the summit and 3 and a half hours to descend. It is nowhere near as popular as Batur or Agung although the summit area has been cleared and there are some excellent views from the higher slopes.

If you are travelling from Nusa Dua, Kuta or Sanur follow the road signs towards Gilimanuk and Tabanan. It can be quite tricky to actually find the turn off where the road heads north gradually up the slopes towards Pura Lahur Batukau so ask if you have any problems. The 20 kilometres of exceptionally scenic road leads through several small villages and past miles of neatly terraced rice fields which are among the most picturesque in Bali.

On the steep road north of Meliling past Wongaya Gede, about halfway up the slope of the towering 2,200 metre high Gunung Batukau, perches the Pura Lahur temple. An unusual complex of shrines and a pool set amidst lush, tropical rain forest. The main enclosure lies at the northern end of the complex, with two smaller temples, Pura Dalem and Pura Panyaum, to the South. This was the state ancestral temple of the Tabanan court, and each of the shrines represents a different dynastic ancestor. Di Made, ruler of the Gelgel between 1665 and 1686, is represented by a shrine with a 7 -tiered roof, and Cokarde Tabanan by one with a 3- tiered roof. All of the shrines are very modest, without much ornamentation, which gives a great feeling of unity to the complex. A nearby pond is fed by the river Aa. In the center are two pavilions on a little isle, one for the goddess of Lake Tamblingan and one for the Lord of Mt. Batukau.

As Gunung Batukau is a seldom visited mountain it can be rather challenging to find a guide. It is a good idea to get to the temple during the later part of the afternoon and arrange a guide for the next mornings hike. Be prepared to pay a rather steep US$50 or more which is outrageous but anything less may not get you a leader which is absolutely essential. A terrific place to spend the night is at the Prana Davi Eco lodge on the higher northern side of Meliling about 2km before the temple. If you wish to be on the summit for sunrise then an early 1.30am departure is essential. The climb starts at around 800m and the summit is at approximately 2,200m so you have 1,400m of elevation to gain on the hike.

The first kilometre of the hike is the place where you are most likely to become lost – further up the trail it is not so easy to end up on the wrong trail. The adventure starts at the car park of Pura Lahur Batukau. Make certain to bring a good torch as most of the hike will be in seldom visited rain forest. From the car park walk through the large Jandi temple gate and follow the path keeping to the left actually going around the temple. After about 100 metres head left again and follow a long building all the way to the end until you reach steps leading down to the river. Just as you get to the steps there is a sign ‘Puncak Batukau’ attached to a large tree. A small trail will lead you for 150 metres down to the river. When you get to the river look for a crossing on the left side which will bring you back to the path leading up the ravine for another good 100 metres. The trail then meets another path where you have to turn right. Follow the path for perhaps another 20 or 30 metres and look for the next turn off to the right.

For the first hour you will only gain about 250m altitude as the path winds through very beautiful virgin forest. Especially on the way down you will be able to admire many species of mushrooms, a large variety of ferns and some amazing huge trees. Eventually the trail gets steeper and the going gets rather monotonous through the seemingly endless woods. Once past the half way mark at around 1,500m the forest becomes very wet and extremely humid making the trail very slippery and the going rather dirty. Here you reach the perfect habitat for leeches so make sure you check and remove any that you find.

For the final 300 metres of elevation gain, the going gets tough as you need to make your way through the very dense undergrowth of this seldom taken path. In several areas it is essential to be very careful as you have to climb through sections where the path has been washed down by recent heavy tropical storms. On the positive side it is in this section where the forest finally opens up and allows you terrific views to the south, west and north. If you are on the way to see the sunrise then by now early daylight will have given you a first glimpse of Bali in every direction.

Eventually the summit is reached after a comfortable 4 or 5 hours of enjoyable jungle hiking. The summit is home to various shrines which are the final destination for many pilgrimages from villages surrounding the mountain. Indeed, it is possible to descend from the mountain on as many as three other routes. This trek is ideal for adventurous hikers who have perhaps already climbed Agung and Batur and are looking for something a little more isolated.

It should take just over 3 hours to descend the same way to Pura Lahur Batukau.

Bagging information provided by Heinz von Holzen