Api

Facts

• Elevation: 1,710 m (5,610 ft)
• Prominence: 635 m
• Ribu category: Spesial
• Province: Sarawak (Malaysia)
• Range: Banjaran Mulu
• Division: Bahagian Miri
• Google Earth: kml
• Rating: (2 votes) Add your rating
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• Other names: none

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Mulu Park is rightly one of Borneo’s leading tourist attractions. Remote yet easy to get to, it is a place where you can have an authentic and wild experience yet also be in reach of decent amenities such as a well-stocked restaurant at Park HQ! Of the main three peaks in the Mulu range (Mulu, Api and Benarat), Gunung Api is the second highest. Despite the name meaning ‘fire mountain’, it is not an active volcano and the name originates from locals having seen bright light resembling flames on the rocks, which is a similar story to that given for Batu Lawi also in this corner of Sarawak. Were these fires during exceptionally tinder-dry weather conditions or as a result of lightning strikes?

Gunung Api was apparently first climbed in 1978 by Tama Kulan and Tama Bulan, the latter being the grandson of Tama Nilong who first climbed Gunung Mulu in 1932 with Edward Shackleton. There is very little information available about any ascents of Gunung Api since then and no official summit trail exists. Unlike the sandstone Gunung Mulu, Api, Benarat and Gunung Buda (963m) are all soluble limestone and this is the reason for the immense cave systems. Gunung Buda forms a separate National Park located north of Gunung Benarat and the Medalem Gorge.

Although hiking to the very top of Gunung Api is not possible without an expedition planned months in advance, the trek to the stunning karst Pinnacles on Api’s northern slopes is one of the most popular adventure activities at Mulu Park. Many participants simply know it as Mulu Pinnacles. The standard package requires three days, with the second day being the Pinnacles trek itself, and days one and three the rather leisurely trek and boat ride from and to Mulu Park HQ. Given the flight schedule, it is advisable to arrive at Mulu the day before so you are ready to start at 9am on day one. However, it is possible to be back in Miri (check the latest schedule) in the afternoon on day three if you take an afternoon flight out of Mulu.

Quite why so many tourists book this trip via expensive third parties, and pay extra without good reason, remains a mystery. The cheapest way to book is via the official Mulu Park website, though you need a minimum of 3 participants. Everything is arranged in advance such as accommodation at Camp 5. Park staff speak very good English if you have any queries.

Some hikers describe the trek to the Pinnacles viewpoint as being more difficult than Kinabalu, and it is certainly more technically demanding, potentially more dangerous, steeper, and much more humid.

Day Zero

Arrive in Mulu. It’s a ten minute walk from the airport to the Park entrance, or a very reasonable RM5 per person to get transported there by vehicle. After checking in, and putting on your 5-day pass, any spare luggage can be left near in a luggage room at the security post just by the bridge which marks the entrance to Mulu Park. In the late afternoon you could visit Lang Cave and Deer Cave, both around 3.8 km from Park HQ. The main attraction is the daily bat exodus of millions of bats from Deer Cave at around 5 or 6pm. An easier alternative is the Tree Top Tower located much closer to Park HQ. Or you may opt to simply enjoy the great food at the Park restaurant.

Day One

Journey by boat up the Melinau River from Mulu Park HQ at around 9am. This normally involves stopping at Batu Bungan handicraft village and a couple of limestone caves (for which entry costs 30 ringgit extra in 2024). The handicraft village, featuring stalls from local Penan people, is surprisingly good and there are some fascinating information boards and the history of the people and area. Of especial interest is the information on their supreme god Bungan (after which the village is named) in their traditional animist belief system which also includes bird omens, presumably being able to predict the future based on which birds you encounter in the forest. Many have now converted to Christianity and live in longhouses as opposed to being nomadic.

After the village, the usually itinerary takes you to the Cave of The Winds followed by Clearwater Cave, both on the right (east) of the river, highly impressive and forming one of the world’s largest cave systems. These are both popular spots with tourists who are not heading to do the Pinnacles so you are unlikely to be alone here.

The trek itself from Kuala Litut (75m) is not likely to start until 12 noon or 1pm, unless your boat of 5 participants all wish to begin earler and miss the caves. From Park HQ to Kuala Litut is usually around 40 minutes by boat but if the water level is low then it could take longer. At Kuala Litut is a wooden shelter where you could have lunch, but most hikers choose to get started on the walk itself. The trail from Kuala Litut is around 9 kilometres and mostly follows the course of the Melinau River to Camp 5 (135m) which has simple but adequate accommodation. This is where all trekkers spend the night before the climb.

There are two significant suspension bridges on the trail, both of which make for good photo opportunities. The first bridge is at Kuala Berar (65m). The second bridge (73m) is approximately halfway to Camp 5. It is safest to cross these bridges one person at a time. Unlike on the actual ascent of the Pinnacles, there are leeches on this part of the trek so leech socks are a good idea. Halfway between the second bridge and Camp 5 are a few large rocks followed by a small clearing next to the river (97m). The junction (134m) for the ascent to the Pinnacles is just a couple of minutes before Camp 5. Most hikers should be at Camp 5 within about 3 hours of starting the mostly flat trek from Kuala Litut. 

Camp 5 (135m) is an incredibly scenic spot, with the river below and the cliffs of Gunung Benarat opposite. It was the final campsite established in 1978-9 by the Royal Geographic Society, which explains the name. The other 4 are all on the slopes of Gunung Mulu. At Camp 5, a limited number of drinks such as 100 Plus are on sale here and can be purchased from staff but do not rely on what is a small supply. There is a large kitchen area to cook in but you need to bring your own food with you. The simple sleeping areas come with mats, but you need to bring your own blanket or sleeping bag. Mosquito nets are usually taken from Park HQ but can be hired at a slightly higher price at Camp 5. You may find that there are not many mosquitoes but almost everyone uses a net. The humidity can feel quite oppressive at Camp 5 but after rainfall it can get surprisingly cool after the sun has set. There is no phone signal or electricity at Camp 5 but there is a phone signal at the Pinnacles viewpoint.

There are some useful information boards here on geology and less popular trails such as the trek beyond Camp 5 to Melinau Gorge which lies just 2 kilometres away and the Headhunters’ Trail to Kuala Terikan 11 kilometres away from where you would need a separate boat connection booked in advance.

In the evening you will have a briefing from the guide about the pinnacles trek, and need to sign your name accepting the risks involved. There are approximately 19 ladders, firmly bolted to rock, but extreme care and concentration are needed when negotiating certain stretches of trail where a fall would inevitably cause injury. The sharp karst rock which is responsible for the beauty of the pinnacles themselves is also a significant hazard on the trail. Treeking poles are of absolutely no use here as you need to use your hands for what is scrambling rather than trekking. Gloves are useful. There is no water available between Camp 5 and the Pinnacles, so you need to prepare the night before with several bottles, some of which can be left on the trail for you to collect on your descent.

Day Two  

An early start, leaving Camp 5 at 6am with headlamps. In the event of heavy, prolonged rain the trek will not go ahead on safety grounds, but a very brief shower should not cause a problem. There are usually around 3 guides and around 15 hikers. Given the low start, the humidity is overpowering and many will find the first hour the hardest. Guides will inform you that you need to be up at Mini Pinnacles (425m) in an hour to avoid missing the first of several cut-off times and having to descend. Mini Pinnacles is a beautiful little spot that lives up to the name, with shards of rock piercing through the ground.

After a brief rest, the climb continues up to the rest spot known as Halfway (628m). This is the place to leave some of your water to collect again on the descent. It is increasingly slow going, with challenging terrain of sharp rocks, ropes, and deep holes in the ground. It is easy to get your feet stuck in the rock. There are two ladders prior to the section of 17 ladders which begins at an elevation of around 1,000 metres. This is the start of the so-called ‘danger zome’. The vegetation becomes less dense as there are some places on the trail where you have a distant view to the forests below. And finally you will reach the fantastic Pinnacles viewpoint itself (1,199m). The end of the trail is the viewpoint, just a few metres away from the Pinnacles and overlooking them.

It is without doubt one of the most unique vantage points in Borneo, with tens of brittle silver-grey shards of karst jutting out of the earth around 50 metres, with a backdrop of deep green forest. You cannot actually touch the Pinnacles themselves as the viewpoint is overlooking them and there is no trail beyond. Look out for a mountain treeshrew at the viewpoint, happy to nibble on leftover snacks. They look more like squirrels than a traditional shrew and indeed treeshrews are not true shrews.

In total, most hikers take around 4 hours up and 4 hours back down, with the official final cut-off time, at which point you must begin heading back down, set at 11:30am. The cloud often rolls in by late morning anyway, so the best chances of good views are as early as you can get up there. Some hikers find it takes them longer to descend than ascend.

Most hikers will be back at Camp 5 by mid-afternoon, and although it is technically possible to get all the way back to Park HQ the same day this is not allowed as part of the itinerary. After such a stenuous activity you will probably be glad of a few hours of leisure at the lovely Camp 5 before nightfall. Many people bathe in the river.

Day Three

The time at which you start hiking back to Kuala Litut is to be decided by your group, with your guide radioing Park HQ so that the boatman will be ready to pick you up at the right time. In the event of incredibly heavy rain, the boat may struggle to reach Kuala Litut, meaning a delay to your return, though this happens fairly infrequently.

You can then fly out from Mulu in the afternoon (depending on flight schedules) or stay another night.

Bagging information by Dan Quinn (August 2024)

Practicalities

• • Getting there: For Malaysian domestic flights and flights within Southeast Asia, for example to Kota Kinabalu or Kuching, we recommend Baolau. Almost all visitors to Mulu Park arrive by plane from Miri, Kota Kinabalu or Kuching. There are several flights a day to Mulu Airport which is only ten minutes away from the entrance to the National Park.
  • Guides and GPS Tracks: Want a PDF version for your phone? Looking for a guide? Need GPS tracks and waypoints? Gunung Api (Mulu Pinnacles) information pack can be downloaded here.
  • Accommodation: Mulu Park offers a wide range of accommodation but there are also homestays and hotels outside the Park. Booking in advance is recommended.
  • Permits: The Pinnacles trek needs arranging in advance via Mulu Park. To avoid extra fees, go direct with the Park rather than third parties.
  • Water sources: Camp 5 has drinking water available. The climb from Camp 5 to the Pinnacles has no water sources so you need to take bottled water with you.
  • We recommend Safety Wing as travel insurance for overseas travellers and tourists hiking up to elevations not exceeding 4500 metres.

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