Besar Hantu

Facts

• Elevation: 1,462 m (4,797 ft)
• Prominence: 714 m
• Ribu category: Spesial
• Province: Peninsular Malaysia
• Malaysian state: Pahang and Negeri Sembilan
• Range: Banjaran Titiwangsa / Main Range
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• Rating: (1 votes) Add your rating
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• Other names: none.

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Gunung Besar Hantu is the highest mountain in the state of Negeri Sembilan and makes an excellent day-hike from Kenaboi State Park. It is not far as the crow flies from the centre of Kuala Lumpur, yet it feels incredibly far away, with the trail starting at the head of the Ulu Kenaboi river valley at the end of a gravel track. Unlike many mountains in the Titiwangsa Range, Gunung Besar Hantu is, for the most part, a gradual climb and offers some great views from the peak in good weather.

On the way to the trailhead it can feel like the road is getting narrower and narrower and bumpier and bumpier as you pass through evocatively-named villages such as Kampung Esok (‘Tomorrow Village’). However there are plenty of signs pointing the way onwards and upon arrival it is quite surprisingly how much infrastructure there is in this rather remote corner of Negeri Sembilan. There is ample free parking and toilet facilities at Taman Alam Liar Negeri Kenaboi. The area is home to Orang Asli, and the word Kenaboi is apparently also the name of an extinct local language that may have originated from these parts.

Kenaboi can get quite busy at weekends, with hikers and also with tourists visiting some of the famous local waterfalls (especially Lata Kijang and Lata Dinding) or camping by the river. On a weekday, you may be the only group up on the mountain. Gunung Besar Hantu is 31 metres lower than Gunung Nuang and at least 31% less difficult.

From the sign at the trailhead (240m), follow the wide track which was formerly a logging road as it leads up the mountainside. At busy times, primarily weekends, it may be possible to pay for 4WD transportation along this opening stretch. At first it is concrete, but it gradually deteriorates into a mud trail, but one which is wide and clear enough that there is almost no need to clamber under or over fallen trees. It is a refreshingly easy start to a Malaysian hike.  After only 20 minutes a junction in the road is reached (354m), with Lata Kijang waterfall to the left, and Gunung Besar Hantu to the right. Further on is a left turn (576m), this time unsignposted. After a total of 1 hour and 20 minutes you should have reached Kem Sungai Kering (623m), a small rest area next to a river which is certainly not dry, despite the name.

If you were to cross the river here, the track would lead you to Lata Dinding waterfall after a little over an hour. But instead you need to follow the trail to the right and into proper forest. This is where there are a few more obstacles on the trail such as logs, plus a few leeches and some genuinely steep drops on the left side of the path. Sungai Kering is crossed a little further up (652m) before the pleasant forest trail continues all the way up to Kem Orkid (979m), which does indeed feature an orchid or two. This is a pleasant clearing which is ideal for a rest before the serious climb begins. A water source is on the right side of the trail (1,018m) a little further along, but requires a not-insignificant descent.

Beyond Kem Orkid the trail is steep and ropes are in place at certain points, but progress is rewarded with some glimpses of Gunung Kecil Hantu (1,354m) through the trees on the left side of the trail. This lower peak is closed at present, apparently due to an unsafe section of trail. There do look to be some vertical cliffs near the top so possibly rather more challenging terrain than Besar Hantu. Apparently there is a proposal to install some ladders there. Finally the main ridge is reached, and this is the junction (1,331m) for Kecil Hantu (left) and Besar Hantu (right). The mossy forest here is absolutely gorgeous and if you are lucky you may spot the tiny corybas, helmet orchid, growing in the moss.

From the junction to the summit is a fairly typical mossy forest ridge more normally associated with higher mountains, not so steep now but with a few sections of mud and plenty of logs and roots to test your agility. And suddenly you will emerge at the summit clearing, complete with the standard summit signs and in this case the remains of the beirut which are now used by hikers to stand on for an elevated view north towards Gunung Nuang, the always-surreal Gunung Ulu Kali at Genting Highlands, and a few attractive yet less high and potentially nameless and under-explored peaks in the foreground. There are spots here suitable for camping at.

As you may have noticed, the mountain has one of the most interesting names of all peaks in Malaysia and seems to have been named by the Orang Asli, along with neighbouring Gunung Kecil Hantu. ‘Besar’ means ‘big’ and ‘hantu’ means ‘ghost’. Is this Mount Big Ghost? If so, why is it not Gunung Hantu Besar, as would be more common, with the noun before the adjective? One possible explanation is that the ghostly area covers Gunung Besar Hantu and Gunung Kecil Hantu, so really these names mean Big Mountain in the ghostly or haunted zone, and Little Mountain in the ghostly or haunted zone. But it’s just one opinion on the matter.

Whatever the explanation and origins, no unusual experiences were encountered during the hike, except that there was a great view from the top at lunchtime instead of midday cloud.

Most hikers should be up at the top in 4 or 5 hours and back down in 3 or 4 hours.

Bagging information by Dan Quinn (August 2024)

Bukit Broga

Bukit Broga (or ‘Broga Hill’) is an immensely popular short hike just beyond University of Nottingham Malaysia main campus near Semenyih. It is often mentioned as the best place to begin hiking, given the lowe elevation and short distance. For experienced hikers it is not much of a challenge, but the views are pleasant in the early morning and it is easy to see why it is a popular spot from which to watch the sunrise. Given the lack of shade, this is not a hike to do in the middle part of the day.

The standard place to park appears to be in a bumpy palm oil field (approximately 100m above sea level, RM5 in 2024). From here, the trail is fairly obvious as it winds its way up to an official entrance area (135m) with trail map and photographs. After dropping down a little and crossing a minor stream (147m), the trails leads up to the start of the lalang grass (‘cogon grass’ in English, 191m) which gives its name to the alternative for Bukit Broga – Bukit Lalang. It is this species of grass which allows the great views.

From here, there are several minor trails up to the 1st Hilltop (318m). There are a few small boulders and places to sit and rest. You can then continue on to 2nd Hilltop (351m) and 3rd Hilltop (367m). This is as far as you are supposed to go, and the cogon grass gives way to forest just beyond here. There is, however, a trail which continues up to the considerably higher Gunung Tok Wan (675m) which offers no views.

Technically, all hikers are supposed to get a Selangor forestry permit to hike Bukit Broga (RM5) but given how much hassle this involves (typically more time spent on getting the six-page permit from an obscure location than doing the actual hike) 99% of visitors do not bother. No surprise. For Gunung Tok Wan, it would not be sensible without a guide and permit.

Most hikers can be up at the top of the 3rd Hilltop in an hour, and back down in less time. It does indeed make a decent stroll either in the early morning or late afternoon.

Practicalities

• Getting there: For Malaysian domestic flights and flights within Southeast Asia, for example to Kuala Lumpur, we recommend Baolau. It can take up to two hours to reach Kenaboi from the centre of KL and completely depends on traffic conditions.
• Guides and GPS Tracks: Want a PDF version for your phone? Looking for a guide? Need GPS tracks and waypoints? Gunung Besar Hantu information pack can be downloaded here.
• Permits: You can register and pay for an e-Permit online from the Forestry Department of Malaysia website though you are encouraged to take an official guide with you. The permit costs RM5 for Malaysians and RM20 for foreigners.
• Water sources: A good source at Sungai Kering (652m) despite the name. Available off the right side of the trail just beyond Kem Orkid (1,018m).
• Accommodation: Try the Booking.com map above or use this link to search for suitable hotels, homestays, resorts and apartments for your trip.
• We recommend Safety Wing as travel insurance for overseas travellers and tourists hiking up to elevations not exceeding 4500 metres.

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