|Elevation:||1,602 m (5,256 ft)||Prominence:||1,594 m|
|Ribu category:||Kurang Tinggi||Province:||Jawa Tengah (Central Java)|
|Google Earth:||kml||Other names:|
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Gunung Muria is a dormant volcano – apparently having last erupted just over 2000 years ago – which dominates the Muria peninsula on the north coast of Java, east of the city of Semarang. The Muria mountain is actually a range of different peaks, of which Songolikur is the highest. It is a very popular hike with local students at weekends, but considering the spectacular views of the Central Java mountains and northern coastline from the summit, and the shortness of the hike itself, relatively few hikers come from afar specifically in order to climb it. It can be climbed from Rahtawu (30km north of Kudus) or from the Jepara side via Candi Angin (‘Temple of the Wind’), but the former is by far the most common route used to reach the highest peak.
The whole area north of Kudus (meaning ‘holy’) is a place of pilgrimage as this region was very important during the beginnings of Islam in Java. There are many grave sites on the slopes of the mountain, most notably near Colo village, at the foot of the Argowiloso peak. Many visitors come to the tomb of Sunan Muria, an early Islamic preacher in Java. Indeed, the mountain is dotted with cairns, prayer huts, small Hindu statues and warungs. The highest peak is often referred to as Peak 29, but there are different stories relating to why this is so and nobody seems to have the definitive answer. There are many minor peaks in the mountain range so it could well be that Songolikur is the highest of 29 peaks in the Muria range. However, some people suggest it may have a more ancient, mythical meaning related to Wayang Kulit. Be sure to ask locals for their explanation. The most impressive other peaks seen from the top include Argowiloso (further east, in the direction of Gunung Lawu), Abiyoso (a very impressive peak further southwest) and Watopayon, the triangular peak east of Songolikur where the sun rises. Abiyoso looks daunting but it is often climbed from near waterfalls further towards Kudus on the west side of the road up into the Muria mountain range – there is even a small sign.
The starting point for the hike to the Songolikur peak is just beyond the village of Rahtawu and it takes a leisurely 3 hours to reach the summit. To get to Rahtawu it is best to take an ojek (motorcycle taxi) from the nearby town of Kudus, although angkots operate during the daytime. The journey is delightful – slowly rising into the hills by the side of the river valley – and at weekends it is a favourite spot of young couples eager to escape the watchful eyes of their parents! Beyond the main village of Rahtawu, the road continues to snake upwards into the mountain range and into Semliro hamlet. Take a left over a tiny white bridge to where the trail begins. The starting point is a trail beyond the cluster of houses and the owner of the house on the left will happily let you store your motorbike inside while you climb. Finding enough space to park a car or larger vehicle would require negotiations with friendly villagers.
The trailhead is at an elevation of 813m so it’s only another 800 metres ascent to the very top. The first section of the trail is along fairly flat and well-defined farming tracks which follow the river into the mountain range and cross several streams. After less than an hour, you will reach a wooden building at a sharp corner in the trail. This is known as Pos Zigzag (1,005m). Views south are already very impressive indeed and the imposing rockface of the Abiyoso peak of the Muria range on your left is pretty spectacular. Soon afterwards, you reach Pos Bunton (1,157m) – a camping barn and a warung with freshly made gorengan (fried snacks), noodles and coffee/tea. It would appear to be open 24 hours a day for local student hikers and farmers.
Beyond Pos Bunton there is a small signposted junction (1,242m). The right turn goes over the hillside to the village of Tempur beyond the peak of Muria itself. Do not take this turn, just keep on heading straight along the more obvious path to the Songolikur peak itself. Between approximately 1,264m and 1,350m there is an area of recent landslide (lonsor). This represents the only real difficulty in the whole hike. You need to be extra careful on certain short sections as a slip here would have very serious consequences. Another hut comes into view (1,350m) and is actually the first of many empty huts that look as though they are sometimes used to sell hikers snacks and drinks. There are some vegetable plots here and it feels very much like somebody’s well-kept garden. There are also one or two tiny shelters with what appear to be gravestones inside them.
After the collection of huts, the trail starts to rise steeply up the side of Muria’s highest peak itself. From here you should be able to see Merbabu, Merapi and Lawu in the distance. There are two tiny prayer huts (1,426m and 1,554m) on the steep side of the Songolikur peak. As you finally reach the top of the mountain range, you are confronted with two red welcome posts and an Indonesia flag. There are all manner of buildings up here – another tiny shop/warung (run by the elderly Pak Sijan, once again seemingly 24 hours a day!), a telecommunications mast of some sort, camping barns and a walled enclosure with several Hindu statues inside. If you have a look at your GPS, you should see a reading of approximately 1,592m – 10 metres below the highest point of the range. Indeed, the true summit itself is a further five minutes’ walk along a short vegetated ridge which is crowned with a cement pillar halfway along it. The highest point, which is slightly further north, is a collection of boulders and a small Hindu shrine. The location offers great views over the coastline of the Muria peninsula and eastwards along the north coast of Java. The view also now encompasses the twin giants of Sindoro and Sumbing to the southwest. Muria may not be one of the highest peaks in Java, but in good weather it is definitely one of the finest viewpoints.
There are places to camp – indeed you can stay at Pos Bunton if you wish – but considering the short length of the hike, it can easily be enjoyed without the need for camping equipment. It is best to reach the summit in time for dawn to enjoy the sunrise. After you have leisurely returned the same way, there are several other natural attractions in the area such as several minor waterfalls right next to the road which leads back into Kudus.
Bagging information by Daniel Quinn (updated January 2013)
|Getting there||There are plenty of buses to Kudus from Semarang. From Kudus, take an ojek or angkot towards the Muria mountain range and Rahtawu village (30km). The starting point at Desa Tempur is difficult to reach, lying nearly 3 hours away from Jepara.|
|Accommodation||Plenty available in Kudus, Jepara and Semarang. Kalingga Star in Jepara is basic but well-priced and friendly.|
|Permits||None required but take a photocopy of your passport photo page just incase.|
|Water sources||Finding water on the usual hike from Rahtawu (south of the peak) is never a problem. There are many streams and even tiny village shops selling water on the trail itself.|
Origins and Meaning
(probably) High and Noble Mountain. Probably muria (pronounced /MOOR.yo/ in Javanese) is a variant of the Javanese word mulya (pronounced /MOOL.yo/) meaning (among other things) “high, noble”. Note that in the evolution of Indonesian languages /l/ often morphs into /r/ and vice-versa because the points of articulation of /l/ and /r/ are almost the same inside the mouth. Thus we have (for example) the title of the ancient spirit deity of the southern ocean Nyai Roro Kidul, who is also often Nyai Loro Kidul. (George Quinn, 2011)