// Pangrango

Facts

Elevation: 3,019 m (9,905 ft) Prominence: 2,426 m
Ribu category: Google MarkerSangat Tinggi Province: Jawa Barat (West Java)
Google Earth: kml Other names:
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Eruptions: Gede 1747-48, 1761, 1832, 1840, 1843, 1845, 1847-48, 1852-53, 1866, 1870, 1886-88, 1891, 1899, 1909, 1947-49, 1956-57

Photos

PangrangoNext »
Gede-Pangrango as seen from the train to Bandung (Dan Quinn, December 2012)Gede-Pangrango as seen from the train to Bandung (Dan Quinn, December 2012)
Gede-Pangrango as seen from the train to Bandung (Dan Quinn, December 2012)
Gunung Gede by Franz Wilhelm Junghuhn (1856)Gunung Gede by Franz Wilhelm Junghuhn (1856)
Gunung Gede by Franz Wilhelm Junghuhn (1856)
View of Gede-Pangrango from Cisarea (unknown photographer, 1928) Courtesy TropenMuseum ArchivesView of Gede-Pangrango from Cisarea (unknown photographer, 1928) Courtesy TropenMuseum Archives
View of Gede-Pangrango from Cisarea (unknown photographer, 1928) Courtesy TropenMuseum Archives
A misty Surya Kencana near Gunung Gede (Daniel Quinn, December 2011)A misty Surya Kencana near Gunung Gede (Daniel Quinn, December 2011)
A misty Surya Kencana near Gunung Gede (Daniel Quinn, December 2011)

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Bagging It!

This Ribu is one of the two peaks that form part of the famous Gede-Pangrango National Park. It is only 50 km drive from Indonesia’s capital city Jakarta, and is one of the most popular destinations in “The Puncak”, which is the area between Cisarua and Cibodas. Due to its proximity to Jakarta and Bandung, it sees over 50,000 visitors per year and there is actually a limit to how many climbers are allowed up each day. The most common starting point is at the entrance to the magnificent Cibodas Botanical Gardens where the Gede-Pangrango Park office is located (for permits, guides, porters and basic maps).

Most hikers’ destination in Gede-Pangrango National Park is actually Gunung Gede, understandably so since the hike to Gede summit around the towering cliffs of its crater is a wonderful hiking experience, and offers extensive views of Pangrango, Salak, the Bandung area and on clear days you can see Gunung Karang in Banten Province, Jakarta, and the coastline of West Java. You can see Sumatra if you’re lucky. Pangrango itself is a dormant volcano with a forested summit, however for fit hikers a trek to both peaks can be done in a weekend with only one night’s camping. One Alfred Russel Wallace was certainly impressed, writing that ‘by far the most interesting incident in my visit to Java was a trip to the summit of the Pangrango and Gede Mountain’.

From the National Park Office in Cibodas (1,250m), follow the track by the side of the botanical garden golf course to the gate post where the park staff check you have a permit and a guide or porter. After 30 minutes along the track at 1,500m is Telaga Biru (blue lake) which lies to the left of the path. Another 15 minutes and you will reach a large swamp area which has a wooden and concrete walkway across it. After that is a wooden hut and signposts just before Cibeureum waterfall (which isn’t actually on the main path itself but makes a pleasant minor detour). It is another 90 minutes from here to the fantastic hot stream waterfall (2,100m), which you cross with the use of the rope and poles to hold onto. The water is incredibly hot even though it has travelled quite a long way already out of the crater. Just beyond the hot water is a rather unattractive cement hut and another steaming stream. From the hot springs, it is about 15 minutes to reach the camping area of Kadang Batu, which is an option for camping only for those who are novice hikers. It has a source of water, but really you should hike on another 30 to 45 minutes to Kandang Badak camping site, which is a relatively flat forest area in the col between Pangrango (northwest) and Gede (Southeast). This is the most popular camping area, since it offer the option to climb both peaks and has a good source of water. Total hiking time so far is less 3 hours for fit hikers, but perhaps 4 or 5 hours for those who are less regular hikers.

The recommended option if you want to climb both peaks in one weekend is to pitch your tent here, and then proceed directly to climb Pangrango. You can leave you porter or guide to look after your tent, although there are not likely to be any security concerns. It is approximately a 3 hour round trip to climb Pangrango from Kadang Badak. Just a few minutes on the path above the Kadang Badak campsite, you will reach a T- junction with the trail between Gede and Pangrango and a signpost (right for Pangrango, left for Gede). Take a right and follow the steep forested trail up to the top of Pangrango. The trail is crossed by some large fallen trees and the path becomes rutted and it is easier to zig-zag up the trail with the lesser gradient rather than taking all the short cuts. From the signposts it takes about 2 hours to the top where there is a wooden structure and cement pillar at the top and some reasonable views through the tree branches to the Gede crater. The best place to camp on Pangrango is just below the highest point at a flat area called Alun-alun Mandalawangi, but there is no source of water. The main reason to camp here would be for the relative peace and quiet since most people prefer camping at Kadang Badak or on Gede.

After spending the night at Kadang Badak, you should get up early and complete the much easier climb to the crater time and the summit of Gunung Gede (2,958m). From Kadang Badak, follow the obvious route onto the shoulder of Gede. You shouldn’t have problems if you stay to the trail because it is a very popular hike and there will be many other hikers around. As you start to climb higher in the forest, you reach a point where there are some metal posts with wire strung between them as the trail gets markedly steeper up a rocky outcrop. It’s easy to climb this initial part, but above that the rock slop is very steep and some people may not be comfortable hauling themselves up this steep section. If you don’t want to do this, just as you reach the start of the metal bars and rope, there is a path in a deep gully that curves off to the left of the trail. Take this route since it is an easy and safe alternative route. At very least, look out for this route on your descent.

The smell of sulphur becomes stronger and the trail nears the edge of the crater (on the left of the path). As you emerge from the forest you climb gently up along the crater rim and the views get better and better as you climb. Be careful not cross the roped path because the crater edge cliffs are high and sheer. There is a flag at the top and fantastic views in all directions – Gede is a much better viewpoint than the forested Pangrango peak. Many people camp on and around the summit of Gede, and at least there is no hike for sunrise, but there is also no source of water. From the summit to the south is the wonderful and atmospheric Surya Kencana meadow (less than one hour beyond Gede summit), which is a great place for a second night’s camping if you have time. From there you can then follow the long, significantly eroded trail round to Gunung Putri village (1,550m) and take an ojek (motorbike taxi) back to Cibodas. Allow 4-5 hours to reach Gunung Putri from Surya Kencana. The alternative is to simply return the same way, of course. In reverse, the Gunung Putri route provides excellent access to Gede and Surya Kencana.

Note that there is also access to Gede from the south at Pondok Halimun (1,100m), Selabintana – near Sukabumi. Because it is further away from Jakarta, this is the least popular of the three routes and therefore far fewer people use the trail. It is a long 11km from the National Park offices to Surya Kencana camping area below Gede summit and there are a lot of leeches on the lower part of this trail! It makes a great trip if you don’t mind driving that little bit further round to Sukabumi and also if you enjoy a bit more solitude. Allow approximately 7-8 hours to reach Surya Kencana from the starting point.

Bagging Information by Daniel Quinn and Andy Dean.

Practicalities

Getting there From Jakarta, there are plenty of buses to Bandung which go via Puncak and Cibodas. Travelling back into Jakarta on a Sunday is not recommended as the traffic is horrendous. You could go back via Cianjur and Padalarang but it’s quite a detour.
Accommodation There are many hotels around Cibodas, Puncak and Sukabumi (for the Selabintana route from the south).
Permits There are lots of restrictions. You must apply for a permit from the park office in Cibodas between one month and 2 days before your hike, although you can usually get a permit on the day you arrive. You can phone them on 0263-512776. Entry ticket is Rp 50,000 for foreigners and Rp 2,500 for Indonesians. You need a photocopy of your passport too. Unfortunately, the Park is closed for hiking in January, February, March, August, Idul Fitri and at any time when the management think there is going to be bad weather. Guides are mandatory for foreigners according to National Park “policy” and cost Rp 350,000 (2 days and 1 night) in September 2010. Porters cost 400,000 (2 days and 1 night) in November 2011. If you can speak some Indonesian, you can hopefully persuade the Park staff that you do not need a guide and only want a porter – at least the porters do something useful and carry a bag. It is possible to arrange your porter in advance and then proceed to the Park staff already organised with your porter (although you will still pay the Park staff for the porter and not the porter directly). Porters can be arranged at the Warung Edelweiss, which is a small warung (cafe) in the corner of the public carpark just below the Park office and carpark. Ask for Pak Obik, who is arguably the fastest porter in Indonesia.
Water sources Available at Kandang Badak and Surya Kencana and at approx. 2,370m on the Selabintana trail.
Recommended Hotel:
Local Average Monthly Rainfall (mm): bogor

Location

Origins and Meaning

(unclear). Rango could be a variant of an ancient word that suggests “panting” or “huffing and puffing” and thus pangrango might mean “that which huffs and puffs” i.e. emits smoke and ash during eruptions. (George Quinn, 2011)

Links and References

Wikipedia English
Wikipedia Indonesia

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Trip Reports and Comments

30 entries for “Pangrango”

  1. avatar

    Gede is another rewarding day hike to the summit, with lot’s of great places to stop and take a break including small lakes,waterfalls, and hot springs to the summit. You can also go camping at the top of Pangrango one night and then summit Gede the next putting 2 summits under your belt in one swoop!

    Posted by Zac Dylan | November 30, 2009, 23:56
  2. avatar

    One of a kind! If you’re living in Jakarta, you should climb this mountain :) … Awesome view at Surya Kencana

    Posted by Firman | December 9, 2009, 10:03
  3. avatar

    about time we have something like this!! i wonder how people trek mountains in indonesia where u can’t really buy ordnance survey-like maps? i’ve asked some people who simply replied “we used no maps! just follow the trail” to my horror!!!

    a lot of accidents happened and i think it’s down to the lack of basic/essential information, esp when you’re trying to climb an active volcano!

    Posted by Adeline | December 12, 2009, 10:22
  4. avatar

    Why isn’t Gede classified as its own peak? its at least 2900m++ – doesn’t that merit its own entry?

    Posted by Paul | May 30, 2010, 04:39
    • avatar

      Hi Paul, Gede is considered ‘part’ of Pangrango, as Pangrango is higher and Gede is not separate enough in terms of prominence. They’re both part of the same mountain massif and it is obviously worth visiting both.

      Posted by Dan | May 30, 2010, 08:13
    • avatar

      Paul, we actually use Gede and Pangrango as a “case study” in explained the concept of prominence, which is used to define a Ribu – see http://www.gunungbagging.com/ribu-methodology/ There is an argument that Gede should be a “Special” even if it does not have 1,000 m prominence, but at the moment we think Pangrango-Gede merit one entry, and Pangrango is the Ribu.

      Posted by Andy | June 2, 2010, 10:13
  5. avatar

    After having been closed for January, February, March, August and Idul Fitri, Gede-Pangrango is once again shut for a whole month! Aren’t National Parks wonderful? The management here are obviously some of the most intelligent beings in Java. Closed for half the year. This mountain is fast becoming one of the most difficult Ribus in Indonesia.

    Based on the monitoring of weather of Climatology Meteorology & Geophysics Agency (BMG) and LAPAN in October 2010, in West Java region is expected to enter extreme weather (the potential for heavy rain accompanied by lightning and strong winds). Also seen in 2 (two) last week have some climbing accident (lost and sick) that occur in National Parks of Mount Gede Pangrango (TNGGP). In connection with this matter, that in order to implement the service excellent and the efforts safety of visitors, it is necessary to SHUT FOR PUBLIC climbing activities in the region TNGGP for 1 (one) month with the Decree of the Head of Central Park of Mount Gede Pangrango Number: SK. 104/11-TU/3/2010 Date 28 September 2010 About Closure Climbing Activities in the Framework Anticipate Extreme Weather in the Area of Mount Gede National Park Pangrango (TNGGP).

    Posted by Dan | September 29, 2010, 20:10
  6. avatar

    For reasons of safety and in order to implement excellent services it has been decided that no person in Java may leave his or her bedroom during the month of October due to the weather forecast. Two rebellious individuals from the Kemang area left their homes last weekend and got dangerously damp and disorientated. Therefore it is necessary to SHUT FOR PUBLIC the entire outside world for one (1) month.

    Posted by Dan | September 29, 2010, 21:19
  7. avatar

    maybe the management should put some barb wire fence around the massif and put a alien restaurant at the entrance and a black letterbox and call it area-52

    Posted by chris whiting | September 29, 2010, 20:58
  8. avatar

    just to add little information: there are a spring in the middle of alun-alun mandalawangi..

    so you can get the water source there..

    Posted by Fajar | June 3, 2011, 08:16
  9. avatar

    FYI

    Additional information re porter and guide. For you who wants to take guide and porter (esp. foreigner) please know that you have to prepare all gear camp for porter, such as tent and stove. If u don’t have, they have rental for gear camp. I’m so surprise with this and makes me avoid Gede-Pangrango. Especially the fact that we have to prepare camp gears for porter up on 350k for 2D 1 N (maybe, also chocolate bars? victory drink??) and they have rental for gear camp in case we can’t prepare it for porter..!! Yup! it’s a good way to make money dude. Foreigners are milking cow!

    Posted by Gita | September 19, 2011, 13:43
    • avatar

      I agree entirely Gita. The policies are racist, pure and simple. Not only do foreigners have to pay more for entry, they are also FORCED to take expensive guides and porters. What is it about non-Indonesians that makes the National Park staff think they are more stupid? Perhaps, as you point out, it is simply that they think they can charge a higher rate from that tedious stereotype of ‘rich bule’. I hope that if/when the people responsible for these racist policies ever go to England they have to pay 10 times the price to visit the Tower of London and have an expensive guide for a climb of Helvellyn. Then perhaps they will know how it feels. It’s pathetic – like an inversion of apartheid. I too generally avoid this mountain due to the management policies.

      Posted by Dan | September 19, 2011, 13:54
  10. avatar

    Summitted Gede this past weekend. Weather was outstanding and the views phenomenal!
    As a foreigner, I do not mind paying a little extra, as long as the park is well maintained. Unfortunately, this is not always the case at this park. The trail is in decent condition for most of the way. However, the amount of trash on the trail is disturbing. It demonstrates lack of environmental ethic by park visitors and lack of commitment by park staff to educate. Also, there are no pit toilets at the camping areas. With the high use, this creates an atmosphere lacking sanitation. The drinking water source at Kanang Badak needs to be better maintained as well.
    Despite all that, its still a great hike.

    Posted by Jamie | September 26, 2011, 09:21
  11. avatar

    Any thoughts on climbing Pangrango as a single (long) day climb – ie early early Saturday up and down? Possible to be back down in time to get the last bus/train from Puncak to Jakarta?

    Posted by Paul L | October 4, 2011, 18:07
  12. avatar

    Latif – who is also a guide for Salak – is now a guide for Gede/Pangrango. Similar price to the official Taman Nasional guides. He has a relationship with the Park authorities so you might want to take Latif and his friends as your guide instead of a random guy at the park office. They know all 3 main routes. Check the guides page (look under ‘P’) for contact details…

    Posted by Dan | November 1, 2011, 15:03
    • avatar

      Thanks Dan for the information. I didn’t see this comment earlier but saw Latif’s information on the ‘Guides’ section of the website. I highly recommend him and his friends – I just went up and down with Widi on a long single-day hike on Saturday to the Pangrango summit.

      Glorious weather and we did it in just under 12 hours including some breaks. Heavily forested summit so we didn’t see much except a glorious view of Gede. That was nice to have an opposite perspective from our Gede ascent a year earlier. All in all a good day out from Jakarta and happy to have officially bagged the Gede-Pangrango summit!

      Dan I see above that you did it in 10 hours – that’s a pretty good fast pace! Well done!

      Posted by Paul L | November 27, 2011, 21:56
  13. avatar

    I’m going to hike Gede/Pangrango on July 2012 after SIMAK UI , anyone wanna join?

    Posted by Dony | March 25, 2012, 18:06
  14. avatar

    Anyone have contacts for guides for Gede? I’ve used Latif before but his number/email don’t seem to be working. Any help is much appreciated!

    Posted by PAUL | October 23, 2012, 11:31
  15. avatar

    reached the summit of Gede on 8th Dec 2012. Went up by the Cipanas route and came down by the Cibodas route “quietly”.

    The Cipanas route(Gunung Putri) started with a walk through farms and it was very pleasant. My guide called it a bonus :).

    The Cibadas route while passing through hot spring and waterfalls at the upper reach, involve a one hour walk on stone pathway at the lower reach(entrance) which is tiring and you need walk carefully as it may get slippery.

    Went there on Thursday, got the permit issued on the following morning and started the hike up. just have to pay the guide and the porters – They provide their own tent and equipment for their own use.

    Apparently, the Cibodas entrance is currently closed for hiking until April 2013 for renovation. However, it is still open to the public for recreation at the waterfall but not beyond it.

    Posted by Anthony Tan | December 9, 2012, 22:15
  16. avatar

    The Gunungputri approach is less attractive for it is water-less, forest all around and steep almost all the way up. Until you get into the Suriakencana savanna valley. Plenty of water and literally good for hundreds of tents. Experience a full moon over there and you would come back. The famous G Gede peak is 40 minutes further up.

    Posted by Handjono | December 16, 2012, 21:31
  17. avatar

    Does anyone know if the Cibodas entrance is still closed for renovation?

    Posted by Brendan C | April 28, 2013, 21:47
  18. avatar

    The ideal route to take is from Gunung Putri to Cibodas, not the contrary to it. Why? Gunung putri is the village that quite far away from main/province road, thus almost impossible to find the bus or any public transportation, unless you want to spend more time to walk down to town (Cipanas) for another +/- 7Km. Secondly, you will get a “full package”; More challenging track (waterless, steeper, no “stair-like” stepping stone), but you will get a shorter track, because you just have to stop at Suryakencana savanna, a huge camping area (50 hectares) to make a tent, rest, enjoy the savanna & valley’s view before you get to the Gede peak in the next morning then go down to Cibodas entrance.

    If you start from Cibodas, chances are you build a tent at Kandang Badak, not a large place although it has plenty of water, struggling with tiny space between someone else’s tent right next to yours. You won’t find a great view since the place surrounded by high trees. If you want to skip this, you won’t find any comfortable area to make a tent until you get at Gede peak (+/- 3 hours distance). Some hikers make the peak as a final destination since they don’t want to spend more energy to go down to Suryakencana and get back to the peak to go home via the same track.

    Posted by Dony | May 7, 2013, 10:30
  19. avatar

    after a very rough start to my trip i managed to bag pangrango and also gede last friday and saturday.what a brilliant mountain range.i really enjoyed the hike up pangrango.and gede must be one of the nicer craters i have been to. so heres the details of my trip that i hope might help fellow travellers .
    i flew into jakarta from hong kong where i live at 5.30am .basically to cut a long story short i found myself 2 hours later in ciawi just up the road from bogor needing to get money out. after trying numerous atm machines that didnt support a hong kong card and not having a money changer open that early in the morning i took a ankot 10 mintues down the road to a bank that would open soon. i get into the ankot and some local chap jumps in and pushes up against me.at the time i thought he was unusually very close to me but then in a ankot where its a 6 seater that crams 20 people i just assumed its normal.then this girl sitting opposite strikes up a a conversation with me and she seem very helpful telling me which bank to go to.during this 10 minute ride the guy gets off. then i arrive at the bank and put my hand into my beltbag that i had around my waist to find my money pouch and iphone was missing.then it all clicked.girl distracting me while very close guy slips his hand in my beltbag and take whatever he can get.as i realise i have just been scammed i start freaking out realising that i cant even call anybody and have very little money and no way of drawing money out. luckily he didnt steal my wallet with credit cards or passport. so totally fed up i get the next direct bus to the airport and i am prepared to catch whatever the next flight is out of there.after arrving at the airport i find a internet and mange to contact my wife through facebook to cancel my phone and luckily for me dan( gunung bagging founder) who lives in jakarta is online. so i end up staying the night with dan and after recovering my nerves i decide that i have to at least try and make the trip a success.luckily for me dan speaks bhasa well so we made a trip to the local police station to get a police report of my stolen items for travel insurance purposes.dealing with the indonesian police is something you should avoid but the only problems we had were they couldnt get my name right on the report. for some reason there computer wouldnt let them put the letter G on the end of my name which might end up costing me any chance of a claim.
    i still had alot of hiccups after this. the usual getting ripped off because im white.totaly useless taxi drivers with dodgy meters( i think they are called jumping horse meters).they also almost never know where they are going.horrendous traffic in and around jakarta. i am happy to bag pangrango but i will never return due to the stress of getting there. that road from bogor up to puncak is almost gridlocked. after half an hour of not moving 1 meter i gave up and hired a ojek to take me back.be very careful with your money around ciawi junction. after talking to the locals up in cibodas they said its a notorious area for pickpocketing.even they have lost money there.
    the hike itself was brillant.they have a quota system and you are supposed to book in advance but the park office told me that is only for locals and that foreingers will always be welcomed.which basically translates to ” theres no way we will turn down the chance to fleece you of your money”
    avoid weekends up there. on the friday it was fine.but i counted over 50 tents( and 50 blaring radios) at kandang badak on the saturday and judging by the amount of people i passed on the way down i think their quota system might be faulty.
    it took me 5.5 hours to reach the summit of pangrango and then another 3.5 hours to go back down and then back up to gede.i would make the extra effort to camp up on gede to get away from the noise from the local back at kandang badak.i hired a porter.his name was dede and hes the quickest i have even seen.he was great.also my guide was a nice chap.andre was his name.make sure you let them know in no uncertain terms that you are paying to climb both mountains and not one.they will try the 2 mountains must pay twice trick.you are already paying way over the local price so dont give them more.
    i had to go up and down the cibodas route because the putri route is closed for restoration.
    i have been to indonesia alot and this trip has me thinking if the joy of standing on top of a volcano is worth all the crap you have to put up with.nothing comes easy in indonesia.i get the feeling that just going down the road to buy milk would likely ruin your day. i think dan deserves a medal for sticking it out and going to all these remote places.you wont find a more beautiful and yet frustrating place than indonesia.trying to go it alone without speaking the language is near impossible.still give me that over china anyday.

    Posted by chris | October 9, 2013, 11:19
  20. avatar

    Update September 2013:

    Gunung Putri is closed “at least until 2014″.

    We only had to pay the special Westerners fee, nobody tried to force porters or guides on us.

    I wish the two shifts of 4 pegawais doing nothing but collecting money would do something useful and stay at Badak or the peak at least on weekends. These beautiful places are garbage dumps that cast shame on Indonesia.

    Posted by Dieter Menne | October 14, 2013, 00:29
  21. avatar

    I climbed Pangrango over the weekend.Left jakarta midday saturday and arrived at Cibodas gardens at 5 PM .had a stroll around and a look at the mountain.
    Checked into Ubud Bali Guesthouse (150,000) had tasty dinner of smoked chicken and fish and 2 Bintangs
    Got up at 4 Am and drove up to the Cibodas car park ..Many people about and food stalls open . had a coffee and Nasi goring then hit the trail. Still dark but a bright half moon . soon found myself walking across a golf course and into a farmers field …Asked a workman and im going wrong way! back down the hill ..i missed the entrance a sharp right Before the golf club house.
    reached park entrance at 5:30 Park rangers tried to sell me an entrance ticket for 150,000 and i noted locals were paying only 11,000 so I pulled out 65,000 from my pocket rangers seemed happy .( no need for permits, guides ,passport Blah Blah)
    Trail very quiet for 2 hours only saw a few hikers and Wild birds until after the hot springs (watch it very slippery) were there was a huge campsite Kandang Badak which i reached after 3 hours . Lots of indonesian students eating noodles but all very friendly
    2 more hours later i am at the Pangrango peak(less than five hour total from Park gate) Eat my tin of Tuna and Shared My Kendall Mint cake with other hikers and headed down . Took 3 hours back down to waterfall and a refreshing shower!!
    A fair day hike for the average level of fitness gets very Rooty and lots of tree trunks to crawl under or climb over as you near the Peak but a damn good weekend escape from Jakarta and a Good time to do it before Rains start

    Posted by lawrence | September 15, 2014, 11:44

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