|Elevation:||1,705 m (5,594 ft)||Prominence:||1,254 m|
|Ribu category:||Kurang Tinggi||Province:||Sulawesi Selatan (South Sulawesi)|
|Google Earth:||kml||Other names:||Tonggongkarambu (mistaken spelling)|
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Located quite close to Makassar, Gunung Tondongkarambu is the highest mountain in the Bantimurung – Bulusaraung National Park area and the peak is at the northern end of a long, steep ridge. The area was first explored by Alfred Russel Wallace in 1857 and is the second largest karst area in the world (the largest is in China). Although most people know the area for caves and waterfalls rather than for mountains there are a couple of good hiking options in this very picturesque region, including both Tondongkarambu and the more popular and shapely Bulusaraung (1,353m) which is actually often visible from Makassar airport. It’s a stunning area and the roads weave round near-vertical cliffs into the very heart of the hills. You will find very little litter indeed, for few hikers use the trails except local hunters and wood-cutters.
Apparently there is a small village named Tobalo in a remote part of the national park just a few kilometres north or northwest of Tondongkarambu whose inhabitants (‘orang balo’) are eleven albinos. It is said that this number must stay the same, so should one inhabitant die, a new albino from outside must come and take his or her place. Conversely, presumably, should an albino arrive at the village, there will be a total of twelve and therefore one must die. It must be wondered what might happen should a ‘bule’ (foreign white person) arrive in Tobalo! It is a very mystical place.
Until now, we have not yet heard of anyone other than local hunters having reached the true peak of the long Tondongkarambu ridge. A moderately more popular trek is up to the southern end of the ridge to what we might call the ‘southern peak’ (1,440m). It takes only around 3 or 3 and a half hours to reach this top from the foot of the mountain, but, although it could be done as a day-hike, one night camping in the forest is probably much more enjoyable than staying in the villages.
The trail to the lower southern peak starts in the remote village of Bonto Masunggu (580m). From there, a path leads over a stream behind the houses, through the peanut fields, over a couple of fences and a short bamboo bridge (620m), past a house with a metal roof (665m) before entering the forest at 735m. From here, the views over to Bulusaraung are magnificent. The trail continues past a large rock (790m), across a log over a small stream (850m) before reaching a wider stream, presumably more like a river during the rainy season (950m). The latter is a good place to camp if you have started late in the day as it is only an hour from the villages. There are actually a few crabs (Parathelphusa genus) living in the mountain streams here. If it is still light, it is recommended that you continue over the stream and up the steep slopes of the mountain and camp on the pleasant ridge instead.
Look out for gaharu (agarwood) trees in this area – endangered fragrant wood, endangered because it can fetch a very high price for use in incense and perfumes. There are some excellent views a little higher up (from 1,290m onwards) and soon enough you will have passed some large rocks (1,360m) and finally reached the ridge itself (1,410m). From here it is only 300 metres (15 or so minutes) along the ridge to the southern top (1,440m) of Tondongkarambu. There are some wonderful views over the edge of the ridge. Alas, you are still about 3.5 kilometres south of the true summit which is about 250 metres higher. If you are brave enough you can climb the old, mossy tree near the southern peak and view the true peak from the highest branches.
To reach the true summit would take an extra day of machete work from the south, so it is probably better to attempt the true, more northerly, peak from Kampung Tokela, a village a couple of kilometres further north from Bonto Masunggu. Apparently there is a trail up to the true peak, though it is very steep indeed and should really only be attempted between August and October when dry weather is most likely.
As you will see, there are plenty of places on the ridge which could easily be turned into suitable spots for small tents to be erected. It’s a lovely area, not too high to be too cold, and often with a nice breeze and lovely views over the edge of the steep cliff. If you would prefer an alternative route back down from the southern peak to the stream campsite area, there is one but it is very, very steep in places and less well-defined but does offer some stunning views. This route leads back down a little further along the ridge – you should hopefully spot some blue string tied to branches which you will have seen further down on the way up. The section at 1,330m is particularly steep so be very careful indeed at this point. Further down, just 15 minutes away from the stream campsite, is a cluster of trees with beautiful bark – resembling eucalyptus.
From the southern peak back to the village should take no more than 3 hours. After the inevitable long-winded chit-chat and something to eat you can be back at the airport in under 3 hours in good conditions so theoretically this hike could be done in a regular weekend from Jakarta. Let’s hope it is not long before more information is found about the elusive true summit further north along the lovely, wild ridge.
Bagging information by Dan Quinn (October 2013)
Origins and Meaning
‘Tondong’ means hill or mountain and ‘Karambu’ means buffalo in the local language therefore Tondongkarambu means ‘Buffalo Hill’.