Just back from a trip to Dempo. Pretty quick now from Bengkulu to Pagaralam – only 4 hours now that the road has been resurfaced and thankfully no sign of the highways robbers. We managed to hire a car/driver for 550,000 each way.
The hike itself was a lot easier easier than anticipated – me and Roman made it to the huge camp ground at 3,000m in just 3 hours. This was via the steep but short Tugu Rimau trail starting at an amazing 1,850m above sea level at a tiger statue and small mosque. They sell cups of local tea up there at weekends and the panorama over Pagaralam is tremendous.
Myself and Roman made it up to the crater rim before the clouds completely rolled in. Spectacular views into the wide crater and the large crater lake. Lots of ancient cairns on the crater rim and a little vulcanology sensor at the highest point on the rim. If you have a GPS it’s a good idea to make a waypoint at the point where you reach the rim from the campsite because in mist it would be easy to miss on the way down.
Maman was our guide (same as for Java Lava and Tim Hannigan’s trip, both of which took the Kampung Empat route) and he’s a very decent fellow but seems to have trouble finding enough porters to help out for even a small group of hikers. The last couple of porters arrived 8 and a half hours after setting off – we were lucky that we had one tent up there because it was dark and raining by the time they arrived.
Watch out for mice searching your bags for food at the Plataran valley camping area – I saw about dozen of them appear after the sun had set and they nearly got my tempe.
The night brought a little light rain but nothing major considering the time of year.
The next morning was rather cloudy but we had perhaps 30 minutes of sunshine on the summit ridge before descending back to the tea plantation. We met no other hikers on the trail in either direction.
There are numerous ‘villas’ to stay at in the tea plantation – a nice spot after coming down from the mountain, although we could have made it back to Bengkulu the same day quite easily. Back in Bengkulu itself there are some great historical sites, a decent beach to wander along and the rather swanky Horison hotel.

Water is available at Shelter 1 and Shelter 2. At Shelter 1, when ascending, the spring is on the right side. The flow is very small. At Shelter 2 the stream is down below on the right side. At the Plataran valley between the 2 peaks, the water is sour because of sulfur content.
At Villa Besemah, ask about pak Anton who lives 1 – 2 kilometers below behind the mosque at the opposite of the tea factory. He hiked G Dempo 72 x and is always eager to help everyone. He arranges porters, logistics, transports. He also accommodates hikers.

Logistics
• 5 hours by car from Bengkulu to Pagar Alam tea plantation guest house (passing through about 20 kms which is apparently notorious for highway hijackings – travel by day and, if possible, in convoy, with experienced drivers)
• 1.5 hour by truck (paved then rocky road) from guest house to start point
• porters: essential – our porters had some initial problems getting themselves organised but they proved reliable and all turned out for the best.
The Climb
• not a long ascent – maybe 6-8 kms – but, as consequence:
• steep, steeper and even more steep towards the “false” summit ridge
• much of the climb is on tree routes and, in many cases, literally, climbing up these roots
• towards the top, climb is on semi-solid rock which offers some traction if tread carefully
• descent – very unforgiving on knees and thigh muscles
• well forested, but didn’t observe much as checking foot/hand holds on tree roots most of the way
• heard gibbons and saw some birds including hornbill in the lower forest reaches.
Campsite
• great, in old crater – highly recommended, one of the best experienced; water available.
Summit
• short half-hour climb to crater rim (“real” summit ridge)
• spectacular views into the crater.
Conclusion
A very tough climb: highly recommended for Java Lava and other enthusiasts “because it there”. Not recommended for those requiring simply logistics and seeking a “pleasant” climbing experience.

A great article by Tim Hannigan about Dempo and the surrounding area…. http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/lifeandtimes/reaching-sumatras-mountain-paradise/444298

http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2010/10/29/dozens-mild-volcanic-tectonic-tremors-occur-mt-dempo.html